Sign in or 
Share this
Ysgolion Duon / The Black Ladders
Please add in any new route descriptions and comments on existing routes.
Parking & Approach
The traditional and most popular approach involves parking on the Gerlan road, above Bethesda, in the area of OS 638659. There is only space for a few vehicles and parking is a problem. Please be considerate to local residents by parking back in the village, car sharing or considering one of the alternative approaches from Ogwen. The path starts at the end of the road at a stile to the right of the new house. A well way-marked muddy footpath rises gently through fields, crossing a couple of streams and rising into Cwm Llafar. Follow the well defined path on the true left of the valley to reach Llech Ddu in 45 min - 1 hr. From below Llech Ddu continue on the path past some huge boulders, for a further 300 metres to the back of the Cwm. 20 - 30 min to the base of the routes from Llech Ddu.
The alternative approach starts from Ogwen - either go up to Ffynnon Lloer and then NE to the top of the cliff, or via Ffynnon Llugwy and NW up the spur of Craig Llugwy to the top of the cliff. Both alternative approaches take 1 hour 45 minutes to the top of the cliff. Descend to the cliff base by heading down WNW from a narrow section of the Carneddau ridge, just north of where the Craig Llugwy spur joins the ridge. Contour around to the Eastern Gully area. Although longer these approaches allow a faster descent to the road on completion of a route.
Base of cliff: 700m
Parking & Approach
The traditional and most popular approach involves parking on the Gerlan road, above Bethesda, in the area of OS 638659. There is only space for a few vehicles and parking is a problem. Please be considerate to local residents by parking back in the village, car sharing or considering one of the alternative approaches from Ogwen. The path starts at the end of the road at a stile to the right of the new house. A well way-marked muddy footpath rises gently through fields, crossing a couple of streams and rising into Cwm Llafar. Follow the well defined path on the true left of the valley to reach Llech Ddu in 45 min - 1 hr. From below Llech Ddu continue on the path past some huge boulders, for a further 300 metres to the back of the Cwm. 20 - 30 min to the base of the routes from Llech Ddu.
The alternative approach starts from Ogwen - either go up to Ffynnon Lloer and then NE to the top of the cliff, or via Ffynnon Llugwy and NW up the spur of Craig Llugwy to the top of the cliff. Both alternative approaches take 1 hour 45 minutes to the top of the cliff. Descend to the cliff base by heading down WNW from a narrow section of the Carneddau ridge, just north of where the Craig Llugwy spur joins the ridge. Contour around to the Eastern Gully area. Although longer these approaches allow a faster descent to the road on completion of a route.
Base of cliff: 700m
Eastern Arete. 200m. II/III
Eastern Gully. 200m. III 3 *
Playschool. 200m. III 3
Playschool Arete. 220m IV 4*
Rich Stone solo 9/2/2010.
Playschool Right Arete. 220m. IV 4
Rich Stone solo 10/2/2010
Pyramid Gully. 200m. IV 5 **
Pyramid Arete. 200m V 6 **
Rich Stone solo 18/2/2010
Amendment to the desciption in the new guide which is missing a sentence (my poor proof reading....sorry)
P2 6 ?m Climb the ice of P2 Pyramid Gully, after 8m break out right on slabs heading for a steep crack in a shallow groove / corner. The crack is steep and strenuous for 5m but well protected and then leads to a shallow turf groove with belay at top.
Jacob's Ladder. 180m. VI 6 **
Jacob's Ladder (original description in 1988 guidebook). 180m. V 5 or VI 5?
Pyramid Face Direct. 185m. VI 6/7 **
Pyramid Buttress. 220m. V 5 **
Follow the WhiteRabbit. 550m V 6**
Named after the mountain hares footprints which led into all kinds of scary places!
A right to left girdle of the pyramid and eastern buttress which utilises a fair amount of previously trodden ground but is none the less a class, varied and exposed outing if a little long (f/a 6.5hrs solo moving fast).
P1. 4, 55m as for Central gully direct.
P2. 3, 40m up to the cave.
P3. 4, 30m take the cave diversion out left then traverse around the arete to belay on pyramid buttress.
P4. 5 50m reverse the traverse of the sods to the double spike belay.
P5. 5/6 50m carry on traversing left passing an awkward and very exposed arete to cross Jacobs ladder traverse around the corner into pyramid gully.
P6. 4/5 40m climb the ice fall p2 of pyramid gully and breakout left on steep turfy mixed ground and traverse around the buttress to belay above a snowfield.
P7. 4 50m take the mixed grove above the belay to cross playschool r/h arete go diagonally up left to climb the narrow ice fall in the back of the groove 5m below the top make a hard pull out left over the arete to a belay near the crest.
P8. 5 35m traverse left into a turf groove and descend down left to the base of a steep pillar climb the chimney groove on its right to a airy pulpit and a few metres left to belay in a groove.
P9. 6 50m a devious zig zag up and down traverse crossing slabs and thin turf grooves now leads (with several 'moments') to eastern gully just below the first of two upper icefalls.
P10. 4/5 30m an awkward pull out left cosses the arete to reach easterns left fork crossing it bellow the chockstone via another hard pull onto eastern arete to a belay in an airy spot.
P11. 3/4 40m cross eastern arete and traverse up left into a large depression.
P12. 3/4 40m carry on traversing diagonally up and left untill an airy belay can be taken on the arete of 'petite verdun'
P13. 4 40m finish pleasantly up the arete of 'petite verdun'
f/a 7-1-11 Richard Stone solo (pitch lengths are an educated guess)
The July Crisis. 290m. V 5 **
If the cave pitch on Central Gully is not in nick follow the aternative traverse out left and take the centre of the three grooves. This gives a good quality tech 5 pitch; quite pushy but good gear. The perfect warm up for the main pitches above.
Ben Bransby & Adam Long (AL) 12th March 2010
The Gerlan Heights. 320m. VI 5 *
C.Parkin, T.Neill & M.Richards. 29/11/10
Scimitar Hill. 360m. V 5 **
Chris Parkin & Paul Platt 2nd Jan 2010
Yr Arianrhod. 320m. VI/VII 6 *** (yellow line on photo below - sorry about the poor quality!)
P1 4 55m P1 of Central Gully.
P2 3 40m P2 of Central Gully to belay below the right end of a steep, roofed buttress on the right wall (midway between the Hedd Wyn and Scimitar Hill starts). Small, rounded spike belay.
P3 6 50m Climb 5m up the right side of an obvious sharp fin of rock (good gear) then make bold, committing moves right to gain an obvious shallow turfy groove. Up this to a snow ledge then straight on up the continuing steep turf line (5m left of Gallipoli) to gain the snow terrace. Belay over left at the toe of the next buttress (spike and nut belay).
P4 5 50m Move up the bare rock slab just right of the belay linking turf blobs then make bold moves left and up to gain easier ground. Follow easier turf up and right to gain a square cut groove in the centre of the buttress. Up this then traverse left to large spike belay below the obvious cracked tower on the left wall of the obvious open corner/groove.
P5 6 40m Ignoring the obvious main corner/groove to the right (which also looks good), technical moves lead straight up the crack in the wall/tower above the spike belay to gain the obvious ledge/break just below the top (tricky to place but good gear on the left). Committing moves lead straight up to a difficult exit (much easier if neve) onto the snow ledge and a junction with the route Gerlan Heights. Cross the snow ledge and continue on easier ground up and left to belay on large cracked blocks.
P6 4 85m Awkward moves lead onto the top of the cracked blocks and a ledge. Step right and up the turfy wall to another ledge then one final wall to reach the crest of the buttress. Easy snow leads to the top.
Owen Hayward, Martin Land 21st Dec 2010 (P3 originally climbed by Phil Dowthwaite Dec 2010 as an approach to Hedd Wyn - see photo below.)
Freyberg’s Diversion. 320m. VI 7
P1-4 As for Gallipoli, to belay at the base of the parallel sided gully.
P5 7 25m Break out left onto the buttress and follow a shallow groove to the base of a short steep corner. This is climbed with the help of a crack on the left wall – strenuous both to climb and protect – to a belay at the base of the next corner.
P6 5 50m Step left onto the crest of the buttress and climb a series of flakes to a terrace. Bear left across this and up a broad groove, bold, which ends in a short safe struggle up a tight corner. Belay in a jumble of blocks.
P7/8 3/4 80m Make a move up, then trend right back into the Gallipoli gully. This soon eases and leads to a short snow slope and the top.
Ben Bransby, Adam Long 21st Dec 2010
Gallipoli. 360m. V 5 ***
Dave Alcock, Martin Boysen, 1972.
Hedd Wyn. 370m. VI/VII 6/7 ***
Chris Parkin & Steve Long 9th Jan 2010
No Mans Land. 340 m V 6 *
Pagan Daughter. 320m. VI 6 *
Imminent Conflict. 320m. VI 5 *
Tora Bora. 370m. VI 6/7 ***
Chris Parkin & Pete Harrison 16th Feb 2010
Central Gully. 300m. IV 5 **
Broken Cease Fire. 350m. VI 7 *
Achi Baba. 360m. VI 6 *
Anzac. 380m. VI 6 *
Chris Parkin, Adam Wainwright, 3rd Jan 2010 Passchendaele. 350m. V 4 *
Passchendaele Direct. 300m. VI 6 **
Flanders. 460m. VI/VII 7 ***
Attempted by Dai Lampard & Nigel Bonnet on Saturday
Climbed by Chris Parkin & Dave O’Dowd on Sunday
2nd Ascent Dai Lampard & Nigel Bonnet the next day - Monday!
Climbed by Chris Parkin & Dave O’Dowd on Sunday
2nd Ascent Dai Lampard & Nigel Bonnet the next day - Monday!
Flanders Summer Line Variation. 420m. VII 8 ***
Dave Garry&Simon Frost 10/01/10
Western Gully (Direct). 360m. V/VI 6/7 ***
Variation: Right-Hand Finish. 120m. V 5 ***
Dave Garry&Simon Frost 10/01/10
Western Gully (Direct). 360m. V/VI 6/7 ***
Variation: Right-Hand Finish. 120m. V 5 ***
Poppies. 390m. VI 6 **
Mark Richards & Tim Neill 3rd Jan. 2010
Mark Richards & Tim Neill 3rd Jan. 2010
The Warsaw Pact. 50m? VII 8 **
The Birdsong groove direct. Initially bold but better gear higher up. Hard technical climbing albeit with some good rests between the hard sections.
Nick Bullock, Chris Parkin, Tim Neill 6th Jan 2011
Bird Song. 330m VI 6 **
Ypres. 440m. VI 6 ***
Arctic Groove. 55m. VI 6 ***
(Green line on the topo below)
Arctic Fox. 420m. V 5/6 **
Arctic Fox - Ypres. 450m. VI 6 ***
Menin Gate. 430m VI 6 **
Tim Neill & Chris Parkin 30.11.10
The Battle of the Bulge. 375m. VI+ 6 ** (blue line in topo above)
A great route; a good line, mostly good gear, sustained climbing, improbable obstacles & serious consequences if you get it wrong at the top!
P1/2) 3 - 140m. As for Cannon Ball to the terrace above the lower tier then traverse left for 20m to the base of an open groove with man-sized spike belays at its base. Alternatively approach as for Arctic Fox from Western Gully and traverse right. Same belay as Cannon Fodder.
P3) 5 - 25m. Follow the first part of Cannon Fodder to belay at a crack & block in the base of the clean cut groove. This is where Cannon Fodder heads rightwards to the twin faint grooves visible from the belay below. Lots of good gear.
P4) 6 - 55m. Climb the clean groove direct or more easily up left to a bombproof bulldog & back right. Continue past a rock spike with tenuous moves on to turf. Up to the improbable rock bulge with poor turf gear but a good flake crack awaits & a knife-blade peg on the lip of the bulge itself. Move rightwards to a surprisingly good crack & then straight up for the turf above. Continue up past a block & slightly rightwards up a turfy groove to an excellent belay just to the left of Cannon Fodder's belay.
P5) 3 - 30m. Climb directly above the belay, joining the open turfy groove of Cannon Fodder, and continue up easier ground following the open groove to a terrace & snow field below the final steep section. A belay can be taken on the left below a very large block, just above the level of the Cannon. Arctic Fox takes the groove/chimney line directly above the belay.
P6) 5 - 55m. Climb up to & past the base of the Arctic Fox groove & go leftwards towards a wide chimney, with a steep icy slab on its left side & a steep turfy groove & crackline on its rightside. (This is slightly hidden from sight from the belay below.) Straight up the turfy crackline where lots of big hexes & bulldogs prove handy. There are 2 turfy bulges to overcome, the last overhanging one may require cutting loose & hoping your axes are in well! Scoot up easier ground rightwards to belay at the huge pillar on the ridge.
P7 + 8) 2 - 90m. Climb up the left, or right, side of the final tower/ridge and continue up easy ground to the top.
FA Geoff Bennett, Greg Cain & Torquil Bennett 09/01/11
Below; Greg approaching the crux of pitch 4 (photo Torquil Bennett).
Cannon Fodder. 375m. VII 6.5 *
A truly turfy line, including two big serious pitches, never too sustained but with many difficult sections & protection often far below.
P1/2) 3 - 140m As for Cannon Ball to the terrace above the lower tier then traverse left for 20m to the base of an open groove with man-sized spike belays at its base. Alternatively approach as for Arctic Fox from Western Gully and traverse right.
P3) 6.5 - 60m A long pitch with reasonable protection and one very hard section. Ascend the ledges into the shallow groove and climb it for 15m to a point that allows a rising traverse rightwards 4m to the right arête. Climb the cracks and shallow grooves to easier ground that lead to a large ledge system (possible belay). Move right and then up to a large block/crack (as mentioned for Cannon Ball) to belay on size 3 cams.
P4) 3 - 30m Climb directly above the block belay and continue up easier ground following the open groove to a terrace below the final steep section. A belay can be taken on the left below a very large block, just above the level of the Cannon. Cannon Ball takes the large corner 8m to the right and Arctic Fox takes the groove chimney line directly above the belay.
P5) 6 – 55m A very bold pitch, which provides the crux of the climb. The wall left of the Cannon Ball corner is climbed on its left side following a thin line of turf with several tricky sections and not much protection. Follow the turf rightwards towards the overhanging rock band where a tricky leftwards sequence allows the obstacle to be passed. Climb straight up to join the top of pitch 7 of Arctic Fox and up its final slot to gain the top of Cannon Buttress.
P6/7) 2 - 90m Climb up the left side of the final tower/ridge and continue up easy ground to the top.
Chris Parkin & Geoff Bennett 3/1/2011 (I think this is Chris' 20th new route here!)
Cannon Ball. 340m. VII/VIII 9 ***
Cannon Rib. 350m. VI 6 ***
The Polar Bear. 350m. VI 6 **
The Great Escape. 370m. VI 7 **
Rich Cross & Dave Hollinger early Dec 2010? Photos of route from http://alpine-guides-blog.com/
The Guns of Navarone. 350m. VII.5 7 ***
Chris Parkin & Tim Neill 2/12/10
Topcat. 350m. V 4 *
The Somme. 375m. V 6 ***
Post War. 365m. VI 5 *
Ian Sherrington & George Smith c.1986
Scott Report. 295m. VII 7/8 **
Sarajevo. 310m. VI 6 *
Trench Warfare. 60m. VII 6 ***
Keith Ball & Chris Parkin Dec 20th 2010
Forlorn Hope. 55m or 300m! VI 5
Geoff Bennett, Chris Parkin & Mike Pycroft Dec 5th 2010
Stari Most. 45m or 300m. V 5 *
Chris Parkin, Mike Pycroft & Geoff Bennett Dec 5th 2010
Walking Wounded. 45m. IV/V 5 *
Chris Parkin & Keith Ball Dec 20th 2010
Ice-fall Gully Left-Hand. 360m. IV 4 *
The Maginot Line. 700m. VI 7 **
Chris Parkin & Geoff Bennett 07/03/10
Ice-fall Gully Left-Hand. 360m. IV 4 **
Ice-fall Gully Right-Hand. 360m. IV 4 **
ATC IV 4 * 300m
A direct and continuous line taking an obvious ice fall and then mixed ground directly above it. In good visibility the ice fall can be seen from the base of the cwm, being 30m right of Ice Fall Gully Right Hand. Approach as for that route, then head diagonally up and right on grade 2 mixed ground to a small bay right of the fall. Large spike belay.
1) 30m. 4 Climb the icefall, then a snowy bay, to a chock stone belay on the back wall directly below a corner.
2) 60m. 4 Climb the corner on turf and ice smears and continue to climb directly through the buttress (sustained). This pitch could be split with a belay if required.
3) 25m. 1/2 Climb the snowy bay trending slightly left to belay below a corner groove.
4) 50m. 3 Climb the corner groove on turf and small ledges. Trend slightly right to continue up a second groove. Belay just before the angle eases.
5) 130m. 1/2 Scramble over broken ground to finish (possible cornice).
Nick Biven, Duncan Nichol 01.96
Bad Admin IV 5 *
Nightfall. 220m. III
Daybreak. 240m. III
Follow Thru' . 250m. IV 5 *
Rich Stone solo 11/2/2010
Swerving the Follow Thru'. 260m. IV 5
Rich Stone solo 12/2/2010.
Finale. 250m. III
Rupe IV 5 *
Grave Groove IV 4
|
restone |
Latest page update: made by restone
, Dec 24 2011, 6:19 AM EST
(about this update
About This Update
Edited by restone
381 words added view changes - complete history) |
|
Keyword tags:
None
More Info: links to this page
|
| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| petejh | Western Gully | 4 | Mar 17 2010, 12:47 PM EDT by GroundUp | ||
|
Thread started: Feb 10 2009, 4:43 PM EST
Watch
The route's in stonking nick right now - here's what Dave and I reckoned on the pitch grades (technical grades) going by the scottish system:
P1. 3, P2. 5, P3/4 (direct variation) 6, P5 (slab). 7, P6. 4, P7. 1 |
|||||
| adam.long | Jacob's Ladder | 9 | Feb 21 2010, 1:03 PM EST by DerekKenyon | ||
|
Thread started: Jan 3 2010, 7:45 AM EST
Watch
Attempted this yesterday, first pitch in good nick, got lost on second pitch and looked to be a long way from easy ground, so abbed off. The line on the topo and the description don't seem to match - the line heading left on pitch 2, the description right... any knowledge?
|
|||||
| MartinK | Approach Times | 0 | Jan 1 2010, 4:32 PM EST by MartinK | ||
|
Thread started: Jan 1 2010, 4:32 PM EST
Watch
The approach times given here (45-60 minutes for Llech Ddu, then 20 - 30 minutes to the base of the routes) are brilliantly optimistic. We didn't hang around and knew where we were going, yet it still took nearly 90 minutes to Llech Ddu. To get to the base of Pyramid Face (and routes near that) took a further 40 minutes. Deep snow and ice makes for slow going in the cwm.
Great conditions on New Years Day 2010, though some turf is not frozen and there is evidence of melting. |
|||||
Showing 3 of 5 threads for this page
- view all
