Cwm Cneifion & Clogwyn DuThis is a featured page

Clogwyn Du Ymhen y Glyder
Base of cliff: 870m a.s.l.

Cleft Gully V 6 *
Dave Wagg & Crispin Waddy, 28th December 2009.

Travesty Direct (photo by Rob Gibson)Cracking Up IX 9 ***
Nick Bullock / James McHaffie (1 rest). 28th Febuary '06.

Travesty VIII 8 *** (VIII 7? ph)
Nick Bullock / Libby Peter. 27th Febuary '06.

Travesty Direct IX 9 **
Pete Harrison & Miles Perkin. 6th March 2010.
(Well done Pete- looking at this is a line that Mick Poynton and I tried ground up back in 1997 - our high point was a 8 foo sling over a blunt spike... we never returned leaving for the 'braver stronger' folks ;-D )

Pillar Chimney. 90m. V 5/6 **
Pillar Chimney Variation. IV 5 **

Erazerhead. 105m. VIII 8 ***
Simon Frost & Dave Garry, 21st February 2010.

Blenderhead. 105m. VII 8 **
Paul Pritchard / Dave Towse (1 pt) '96. FFA: Nick Dixon '98.

El Mancho. 105m. VI 7 ***
Leigh McGinley / Simon Panton. '01.

Manx Wall. VI 7
Brian Davison/unknown 1987. Reported to be a three star route by N.Dixon / P.Pritchard 25.01.96.


Lampard/Brewer. Grade: 'Harder than 5' on all pitches.
(?)
Dai Lampard / Bob Brewer. February '06

Clogwyn Ddu Left Hand top pitch
Clogwyn Left Hand Branch. 120m. V 5 ***
Variation/direct finish (4?) up the steep groove to the left of the original finish. Starts at a couple of shattered spikes where the original groove goes right & the easier escape ramp goes left. Pass a rusty in situ wire (good rock gear next to it) & where the groove steepens step left on to the wall/slab. Ascend to good belays well back. Must have been done before. (Geoff Bennett & Jon Byrne 07/02/10)

Clogwyn Central 120m V 5 *

Torquing Sh*t 120m V 6
Steve Barrett / Rob Bryniarski. 7th January '09, just beating Mark Walker and Gaz Davies to the prize; they claimed 'The Rutt', a very similar line starting direct, on 8th January '09.

11. Clogwyn Ddu Right Hand Branch. (aka 'Y Gully Right Hand') 100m. III *



Buttress to the right of Clogwyn Du
Butresses to the right of Clogwyn Du(photo and descriptions taken from 'Dave ?' on Baggy's blog)
'The two unnamed routes are really pleasant short climbs. The left hand route is about grade II, a 12m(ish) section of ice and then straightforward snow. The right hand line is about grade II/III and had a 15m pitch of ice, then snow to a cave, then another 15m of ice and onto easier ground (if you keep left - easy snow if you climb left immediately after the cave then head slightly right). Total length about 60m, splittable half way at the cave, good spikes available for belays.
The two routes would make nice intro routes or useful for people to nip up if the queues are too big elsewhere! The blue line marks a convenient descent at about grade I.'


Cwm Cneifion
(The Tower). 35m? IV 6 (?)
Mark Richards / Dave Brown / Keith Ball. 14th December '08.

Tower Gully. 150m. I/II 2 *
Tower Slabs. 160m. II/III 2/3 *
Nameless Gully. 120m. II
Nameless Face. 140m. II 2/3
Corner Gully. 80m. I/II
Easy Route. 150m. I *
Hidden Gully. 100m. II **














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petejh
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